The term cosmetic products covers a very large, diverse and varied group of products and is precisely defined by law in the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 as amended. Thus, natural cosmetics and organic cosmetics are not the same. There are also significant differences in peeling products. In the following sections you will find information on animal testing as well as recommendations and tips on how to make your cosmetics last longer and how to recognize certified natural cosmetics and organic cosmetics.

Cosmetic products are regularly tested as part of the official food inspection. In 2021, out of 701 samples assessed, 202 (29%) were objected to(Food Safety Report 2021). The majority of the complaints were due to labeling deficiencies and/or misleading information. 3 samples were harmful to health.

In addition, focus campaigns on various topics are carried out on an ongoing basis. Certain product groups of cosmetic products are specifically searched for on the market and examined and assessed for certain aspects. More information on the results of the investigations can be found here.

Natural cosmetics and organic cosmetics are not the same thing. At the European level, there are no uniform, legal definitions of the terms natural cosmetics and organic cosmetics. There are various natural cosmetics and organic quality labels that are based on private law guidelines. The underlying criteria vary, so that these products do not meet a uniform standard. This situation is confusing for both consumers and manufacturers.

In principle, the following applies: Natural cosmetics are products made from natural raw materials of plant, animal and mineral origin.

According to the Austrian Food Codex (Codex Alimentarius Austriacus), however, it is not sufficient for the starting material to be a natural raw material; the further treatment and processing steps are also precisely regulated: Only physical, microbiological or enzymatic methods are to be used for the extraction and further processing of these natural substances. Chemical extraction or processing steps are not permitted. The only exceptions to this are preservatives (these may also be used in nature-identical quality, i.e. they can also be produced by chemical processes from non-natural starting materials) and emulsifiers or surfactants (may simply be chemically processed from natural substances). Emulsifiers or surfactants are used in cosmetics to mix two immiscible liquids (oil-water mixture).

Only cosmetics that meet these criteria may be labeled "natural cosmetics" or the same, although it should be noted that "eco/organic cosmetics" are not to be considered the same.

On natural cosmetic products, references to organic production of individual ingredients or organic ingredients may be made, but this is specified as follows (see point 1.3.4 References to organic production):

• The labeling of ingredients from controlled organic agriculture, such as the designation "from organic agriculture" or "from organic cultivation" or the abbreviations "Bio" or "Öko" or the same, must be made in the list of ingredients in connection with the ingredient in the same color, size and typeface as the other information.
• However, the designations from "organic farming", "from organic farming", "Bio" or "Öko" must not appear in the product name or in the same field of vision as the product name.

This is intended to prevent eye-catching organic labels and various organic claims on natural cosmetic products from misleading consumers. On the other hand, indications such as "with natural lime blossom extract" or illustrations of plants on the packaging do not make the cosmetic product a natural cosmetic. What counts is the overall impression that the cosmetic product conveys to the informed, attentive and reasonable consumer.

Further information on natural cosmetics can be found here

In principle, the same criteria apply to organic cosmetics as to natural cosmetics and, in addition, principles have been taken over from the requirements for organic food.

In the guideline - Agricultural products from organic production and derived products, the requirements for organic cosmetics are defined. This chapter deals with the production, calculation of the organic content, labeling and presentation, as well as the advertising of organic cosmetics and the control system for organic cosmetics.

According to this directive, a product may use designations such as "organic", "ecological" and diminutive forms such as "bio-" and "eco-", as well as the designations "organic", "eco" alone or in combination only if the product and its ingredients meet the requirements of the directive.

Further information on organic cosmetics can be found here.

Cosmetic products can also spoil. Within the EU, every cosmetic product must be labeled with either a use-by date after opening or a best-before date:

• Cosmetic products that have a shelf life of up to 30 months must be labeled with a best before date.
• Cosmetic products that have a shelf life of longer than 30 months must indicate on the packaging the period of time for which the product is safe to use after it has been opened for the first time. This can be recognized by the symbol of an opened cream jar and the indication of months (M) or years (J), e.g. 6M for 6 months.

Products that have a shelf life of more than 30 months and are not opened (spray cans), are completely used up immediately (single-use packs) or do not spoil at all do not need this labeling. These indications are supplemented, if necessary, by storage conditions that must be met to ensure the indicated shelf life.

Until the end of the best-before date, the manufacturer is responsible for ensuring that a cosmetic product still has its original properties and function: Manufacturers carry out stress tests (preservation stress test or challenge testing) to show whether the product is not spoiled by external contamination with germs, such as also occurs during application (e.g. touching a cream jar with the fingers). After the expiration of this period, the cosmetic product is not automatically harmful or ineffective (e.g. UV protection in the case of sunscreen). The best-before date is not an expiration date! However, cosmetic products, just like food, can spoil or they change their nature or their original function.

The deterioration is not always easy to determine, but if a visual change can be observed (the components of a cream or shower gel separate) or if the contents no longer smell good, the product should no longer be used. Some products are riskier than others because of their composition, packaging and/or use.

Further information on shelf life can be found under Labeling of cosmetic products and Microbiological requirements.

Preservatives, colorants and UV filters used in cosmetic products must be approved throughout the EU and thus safe for human health. Nevertheless, some cosmetics manufacturers - especially natural cosmetics manufacturers - refrain from using these classic preservatives. However, since these products must also be microbiologically safe, multifunctional substances with secondary antimicrobial (germ-reducing) properties are often used to reduce the multiplication of germs. For example, the solvent alcohol or essential oils also have germ-reducing properties. In natural cosmetics, the selection of permitted classic preservatives is limited to those approved preservatives that also occur in nature. For economic reasons, these are usually also produced synthetically by a chemical process and are therefore referred to as "nature-identical substances" because they are chemically identical to the substance of plant or animal origin.

Cosmetic products can also cause adverse effects. This can have many causes:

• Individual intolerance (e.g. allergies to certain ingredients)
• incorrect application
• too high concentration of an ingredient
• contaminated or spoiled product
• illegal remedy
• and much more

What can you do?

Here you can find the contacts of the responsible food supervisory authority in your federal state, where you can report an undesirable effect caused by cosmetics by means of the notification form AT and, if possible, also hand in the respective cosmetic product including packaging for inspection.

In case of (serious) adverse effects, please consult a physician and bring the medical confirmation with you.

You can find more information about adverse effects here

The EU Cosmetics Regulation (see also mandatory labelling) regulates which substances may be contained in make-up colours for carnival and what must be stated on the packaging. It applies to care products, skin and hair cleansing products as well as make-up.

The complete declaration of ingredients in the ingredients list is important to give consumers the opportunity to find out which ingredients are contained in a product before they buy it. This is particularly important for users with various allergies and skin intolerances.

Some products that contain certain colourants, such as CI 45405 (red), CI 10316 (yellow), CI 15510 (orange), CI 74260 (green) may not be used in eye products*. These colourants must therefore not be included in face paints that are also used around the eyes.

A red colourant that should not come into contact with mucous membranes is CI 26100, but this cannot be completely ruled out in products that are used on the lips. This colourant should therefore not be used in lipsticks.

* "Eye product" means a cosmetic product intended for application near the eyes.

Carnival make-up consists mainly of colourants and a fat base or water-based colourants, both of which may also contain preservatives.

Both water-based and grease-based colours have advantages and disadvantages:

• Water-based colours are easier to apply and can also be applied more accurately with a brush and removed easily with soap and water, but may be less durable on the skin.
• Grease-based paints are usually more colourful and long-lasting, but also more difficult to remove and cover the skin with a layer of grease, which some people find unpleasant.

Colour pigments can contain heavy metals. Heavy metals such as lead, mercury, antimony, arsenic and cadmium are toxic and undesirable in cosmetics. Based on many studies of this product group (by AGES as well as by other testing authorities in Germany and Switzerland), orientation and guideline values for the technical avoidability of these heavy metals were calculated. The following guideline values were published on the basis of monitoring (coordinated monitoring programme carried out in Germany from 2010 to 2012: https://www.bvl.bund.de/monitoring):

Heavy metal contents in cosmetic products that are above the following values are considered technically avoidable:

* For the product groups make-up powder, blusher, eye shadow, kajal, incl. eyeliner and eyeliner as well as theatre, fan and carnival make-up: 5 mg / kg

** For theatre, fan and carnival make-up: 2.5 mg / kg

Referenz: https: //static-content.springer.com/esm/art%3A10.1007%2Fs00003-016-1044-2/MediaObjects/3_2016_1044_MOESM1_ESM.docx

In principle, heavy metals can be harmful to human health depending on their content, application quantity and frequency as well as their specific absorption through the skin. Certain levels of prohibited substances (such as heavy metals) are only permitted if they are technically unavoidable under good manufacturing practice and the cosmetic product is safe for human health.

We test carnival make-up for heavy metals as part of focus campaigns and planned samples.

In recent years, no decorative make-up colours have been classified as harmful to health.

Although some levels of heavy metals are not harmful to health, the values are too high to be categorised as technically unavoidable. The manufacturer must carefully select his raw materials, especially the colour pigments, and ensure that they are contaminated with as few heavy metals as possible. Products with a heavy metal content above the guideline values (see table) were either labelled or objected to, depending on the content. The persons responsible must prove that they have taken or must take all possible steps to minimise this heavy metal contamination.

During the 2020 priority action, substances (e.g. preservatives, allergenic fragrances) were detected in children's cosmetics that were not included in the list of ingredients.

Priority actions:

• Heavy metals in carnival make-up 2024
• Safety of cosmetic toy sets 2021
• Heavy metals and UV-active substances in children's cosmetics 2020

Every suncream product available in Austria or the EU must provide UVA and UVB protection and may only contain UV filters that have been assessed as safe by the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (see Annex VI of the Cosmetics Regulation for a list).

The sun protection factor (SPF) indicates the protection against UVB radiation, the UVA protection is present in conjunction with at least 1/3 of the SPF.

The SPF indicates how much longer you can theoretically be exposed to the sun with sunscreen without getting sunburnt than would be possible without sunscreen.

Depending on the skin type ("self-protection time" of the skin), the length of time spent outdoors and the UV index, an appropriate sun protection factor should be selected. UV radiation is higher at midday than in the evening and is also stronger at the seaside due to the reflection.

An example: The "self-protection time" of my skin is 10 minutes, i.e. I can stay in the sun for 10 minutes, after which I would get sunburnt. If I use a sunscreen with SPF 30, I am theoretically protected for 30 x 10 min = 300 min = 5 h, depending on the intensity of the UV radiation (see UV index, the higher the UV index, the stronger the UV radiation).

Sensible exposure to the sun is important to avoid the negative long-term effects of too much UV radiation.